I’ve never liked history. The field of historiography, sure, but also the backwards orientation to the world. Still, I live with a cultured person and sometimes I have to go somewhere and learn something. It’s usually Italy.

(I also stand accused of being an “urbanist”, which seems to mean person who looks around and reads something.)

My guides were Cellini (an evil man people celebrate for his good art), Machiavelli (a good man people demonise for what they mistake for evil words), Ada Palmer, and Carolyn Sargent.

Besides the mere art we’re here for the Republic and its weird spasmodic innovations over 200 years. (I’m extremely annoyed at the wikipedia page, which folds the Medici monarchy into the history of the “Republic”)

What did Florentines invent?:

  • The sonnet
  • Linear perspective in art
  • Avowedly secular politics
  • Western/modern consequentialism
  • Double-entry accountancy
  • Letters of credit and bills of exchange
  • The modern bank
  • Shipping insurance (not Genoa)
  • Vernacular literature?
  • Gelato
  • Modern cryptography if we count Alberti

But what ya done for me lately? Most of the great tourist spots are places that were once great. We don’t want them alive.

What was the common cause of the revolutions in art & politics?

  • Early middle class (the “popolo grasso”) who managed to get power
  • Roughly balanced factions causing regular changeover
  • One guy invited there with his freshly translated Greek library

Now it’s mostly just an art town. The Museo Galileo is devoid of explanation, just lists of facts and instruments. The Museo da Vinci even worse, just toys.

UFFIZI

I know nothing about visual art so the following is unhinged. (In particular I think I have never been moved by a statue)

It’s odd to me how instantaneous the perception of quality is. I know the 1 good painting (e.g. the Caravaggio) in the room as I enter, 20 metres away

Because the Uffizi is so massive, you can see the development of each technique click into place over 300 years. They begin in medieval incompetence and end in…

A fun game I played was looking for the date that people started being able to draw certain things:

  • at first no one can draw bodies in anything but the plane
  • …more than one face
  • …bone structure of that face
  • …babies
  • …reflective metal
  • …breasts
  • …varying light levels
  • …shadows (1495)
  • …silky cloth (1503)
  • …dogs
  • …fat people (1610)
  • …black people
  • …indirect light

The Tribuna is not worth a 20 min wait, just go round the side. Note it was made by the inventor of gelato.

The difference in quality within the museum is interesting. e.g. Belliniano is just not very good. Which is good, it knocks me out of thoughtless reverence. It is impossible to imagine anyone feeling anything for these unfortunate artists when they are surrounded by good art.

Raphael is fine but a little boring. The room which hosts 9 Raphaels and 1 Michelangelo is called the Michelangelo room.

Nearly all restoration money is from Americans.

The Caravaggio rooms were deserted when I went, everyone looking at some mid da Vincis instead.

The star for me is Rosso Fiorentino. He is “decidedly anticlassical”, Art Deco Dada. The only one to show Christianity’s grotesque side (not an insult). He can do anything.









Highest res version online, sad

I am tickled that Serious people find him coarse: “People with loose skin, aaargh!!!

The Saints appeared to [RF] like devils; for it was Rosso’s custom to give a sort of savage and desperate air to the faces, after which, finishing them, he would sweeten the expressions… At this [prelim stage] the patron fled from his house & would not have the picture.

Besides RF’s shockingly modern technique, I love him because he is not trying to be generic (that is, “classical”). Michelangelo tries to be generic but fails, he is too good to be generic.

But

I was more moved by a random Escher exhibition in town. His work displays no emotions per se; it has no need of that crutch. The greatest of all cartoonists. He made >30 copies of everything, so an Escher exhibit can have *all* of his great work in one and so overwhelm us.


Pane sciocco

Tyler says the food sucks compared to the rest of Italy. (Implicitly: because the art is so good that the food doesn’t need to be good. This appeals to me, as all conservation laws appeal to me.) Some desserts were incredible (best cheesecake). But yeah otherwise 7/10 at best.

Confused by how bad the bread is, even in great restaurants. Flat white, dry, tasteless, completely unsalted, no chew, no colour. “Sciocco means unsalted, but it also [means] stupid” It’s tolerable for dipping but they bring it out on its own. And oil and balsamic can only do so much.

GELATO

  • Perche no - 9/10 (pistachio)
  • Della Passera - 9/10 (lavender, Monna Lisa)
  • Rivareno - 8/10 (Buontalenti, skip the choc syrup)
  • GROM - 7/10 (anything)
  • Il Procopio - 7/10 (cheesecake)
  • Vivoli - 6/10

Beats Rome, and so the whole world. Latter two a bit sweet, americanised

Misc

The “green” spaces on Google map are almost all lies, it’s just grey cobbled piazzas.

Flying over the Alps (ZUR-FLR) at a mere 10,000 ft is probably the most beautiful thing I’ve seen from the air. Don’t waste it on night-time or a 30,000 ft overpass.

The airport tram is scenic and $2, do it. Slowly passes the Palace of Justice, most interesting modern building



Tags: places, art

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